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Agate
No gemstone is more creatively striped by nature than agate, chalcedony
quartz that forms in concentric layers in a wide variety of colors and
textures. Each individual agate forms by filling a cavity in host rock.
As a result, agate often is found as a round nodule, with concentric
bands like the rings of a tree trunk. The bands sometimes look like
eyes, sometimes-fanciful scallops, or even a landscape with dendrite
trees.
Agate was highly valued as a talisman or amulet in
ancient times. It was said to quench thirst and protect from fevers.
Persian magicians used agate to divert storms. A famous collection of
two to four thousand agate bowls, which was accumulated by Mithradates,
king of Pontus, shows the enthusiasm with which agate was regarded.
Agate bowls were also popular in the Byzantine Empire. Collecting agate
bowls became common among European royalty during the Renaissance and
many museums in Europe, including the Louvre, have spectacular examples.
The mining of agate in the Nahe River valley in
Germany, which was already documented in 1497, gave rise to the cutting
center of Idar-Oberstein, Germany. Originally, the river was used to
power the grinding wheels. When the Nahe agate deposit was exhausted in
the nineteenth century, Idar cutters started to develop the agate
deposits of Brazil, which also sparked exploration and discovery of
Brazil's rich deposits of amethyst, citrine, tourmaline, topaz, and
other gemstones.
Although the small town of Idar-Oberstein is still
known for the finest agate carving in the world, today Idar imports a
huge range of other gem materials from around the world for cutting and
carving in Germany and Asia. Cameo master carvers and modern lapidary
artists flourish along with rough dealers who scour the world for the
latest gem discoveries for export.
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Alexandrite
One
of the most fascinating gemstones throughout history is
alexandrite: a gem variety of the mineral chrysoberyl that
actually changes color from green in daylight to red in
incandescent light. The first time you see it, it is hard to
believe your eyes! Gems that show special optical effects are
known as phenomenal stones. Chrysoberyl dominates this category,
because not only is alexandrite the most spectacular color change
gem, cat's-eye chrysoberyl has the most dramatic eye.
Alexandrite has a distinguished and glamorous
past: it was discovered in 1830 in Czarist Russia. Since the old
Russian imperial colors are red and green it was named after Czar
Alexander II on the occasion of his coming of age.Alexandrite can
be found in jewels of the period as it was well loved by the
Russian master jewelers. Master gemologist George Kunz of Tiffany
was a fan of alexandrite and the company produced many rings
featuring fine alexandrite in the late nineteenth and early
twentieth century, including some set in platinum from the
twenties. Some Victorian jewelry from England features sets of
small alexandrites.
Alexandrite is also sometimes available as an
unset stone but it is extremely rare in fine qualities. The
original source in Russia's Ural Mountains has long since closed
after producing for only a few decades and only a few stones can
be found on the market today. Some alexandrite is found in Sri
Lanka and Zimbabwe and Brazil but very little shows a dramatic
color change.
When evaluating alexandrite, pay the most
attention to the color change: the more dramatic and complete the
shift from red to green, without the bleeding through of brown
from one color to the next, the more rare and valuable the stone.
The other important value factors are the attractiveness of the
two colors - the more intense the better - the clarity, and the
cutting quality. Because of the rarity of this gemstone, large
sizes command very high premiums.
Then in 1987, a new find of alexandrite was
made in Brazil at a locality called Hematita. The Hematita
alexandrite shows a striking and attractive color change from
raspberry red to bluish green. Although alexandrite remains
extremely rare and expensive, the production of a limited amount
of new material means a new generation of jewelers and collectors
have been exposed to this beautiful gemstone, creating an upsurge
in popularity and demand.
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Amber
Thousands
of years since the dawn of mankind, Amber has held the secrets of a
mystic past. From its health giving qualities, to a coveted treasure
adorned by women for centuries past, the trading commodity of early man
maintains its value and fashion appearance.
Amber is yellow to brown fossil resin exuded by
coniferous trees now extinct; the best amber is transparent. Highly
polished amber is used to make small decorative objects, e.g., beads and
amulets. When rubbed with a cloth, amber becomes charged with static
electricity. Bubbles of air, leaves, bits of wood, or insects, sometimes
of extinct species, are often found trapped in amber. The chief source
of the world's amber is the Baltic coast of Germany.
Commercial mining and gathering activities have been
recorded from as early as 1264 AD and in various guises continue to this
day. Imagine, how much amber has been extracted over a period of 700+
years? It is also true to say that the majority of this extraction was
subsequently turned into varnish and shellac. We will never know what
wonders have been lost. Amber is a strange and attractive gem. Its
golden transparency lends it a quality which even diamonds do not share.
For the artisan it provides a remarkable medium to work with and create
some of the most beautiful objects for us to enjoy. For the scientist it
provides a glimpse into the past, a window into history.
Most of our understanding, beliefs and research on
amber have been based upon the work of European and American cultures.
The Chinese shared our fascination with amber and the earliest written
references go back to AD 92. They believed that amber was the soul of a
tiger which had died and passed into the earth and the Tibetans had
perhaps the most beautiful name for this gem; pö-she, which meant
perfumed crystal.
The amber from the Samland Peninsula in the Baltic is
actually a secondary deposit. The original amber forest was probably
located further South. The resin was subsequently carried South probably
by two great rivers from its original site and deposited in a great
estuarial drift of silt and clay. (At the moment this is still
speculation as many scientists disagree on this point). This deposit
site extends some way out under the sea. This is also the likely source
of amber washed up onto the Norfolk, Suffolk beaches. Autumn and Spring
storms together with complimenting tides tears pieces of raw amber from
the sea bed and strands them on the shore line. If you look for amber it
is usually mixed in with the stranded seaweed, litter and of course
obligatory dead seagull!
Amethyst
Purple has long been considered a royal color so it is not surprising
that amethyst has been so much in demand during history. Fine amethysts
are featured in the British Crown Jewels and were also a favorite of
Catherine the Great and Egyptian royalty. Amethyst, transparent purple
quartz, is the most important quartz variety used in jewelry.
Because amethyst was thought to encourage celibacy and
symbolize piety, amethyst was very important in the ornamentation of
Catholic and other churches in the Middle Ages. It was, in particular,
considered to be the stone of bishops and they still often wear amethyst
rings.
The Greek work "amethystos" basically can be
translated as "not drunken." Amethyst was considered to be a
strong antidote against drunkenness, which is why wine goblets were
often carved from it! The gemstone still symbolizes sobriety.
Amethyst ranges in color from pale lilac to deep
purple. The pale colors are sometimes called "Rose de France"
and can be seen set in Victorian jewelry. The deep colors are the most
valuable, particularly a rich purple with rose flashes.
Amethyst is mined in Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia and
Argentina, as well as in Zambia, Namibia and other African countries.
The legend of the origin of amethyst comes from Greek
myths. Dionysius, the god of intoxication, was angered one day by an
insult from a mere mortal and swore revenge on the next mortal that
crossed his path, creating fierce tigers to carry out his wish. Along
came unsuspecting Amethyst, a beautiful young maiden on her way to pay
tribute to the goddess Diana. Diana turned Amethyst into a stature of
pure crystalline quartz to protect her from the brutal claws. Dionysus
wept tears of wine in remorse for his action at the sight of the
beautiful statue. The god's tears stained the quartz purple, creating
the gem we know today.
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Aquamarine
Aquamarine,
the "gem of the sea", derives its name from "sea
water". The reference is obvious: aqua sparkles like the sea
and its color is pale to medium blue, sometimes with a slight hint
of green. Aquamarine is the birthstone for March.
Aquamarine is found in Brazil, Zambia,
Mozambique, Angola, Nigeria, and other countries.
Aquamarine is always a pastel blue but the
darker the color, the more valued it is. Connoisseurs also prefer
a pure blue, with no green in it. If you prefer a greenish tinge,
you will find that these stones are less expensive.
Because the color is generally pale, aquamarine
should have a good clarity. These stones are often cut in ovals
and emerald cuts. More saturated colors are unusual in small
sizes: usually it takes some size for the color to hold in a
darker shade.
Aquamarine is a durable and lively gemstone that
is appropriate for all jewelry uses. Its pale fire is flattering
to most skin tones.
Legends say that it is the treasure of mermaids,
with the power to keep sailors safe at sea. Aquamarine is said to
be a particularly strong charm when immersed in water (which is a
good thing, since that is when sailors need its power most!)
Aquamarine was also said to have a soothing
influence on land, especially on married couples. Its power to
help husbands and wives work out their differences and ensure a
long and happy marriage makes it a good anniversary gift.
Aquamarine also protects against the wiles of the devil. A dream
of aquamarine means that you will meet new friends.
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Blood
Stone
Bloodstone,
green jasper dotted with bright red spots of iron oxide, was treasured
in ancient times and long served as the birthstone for March. This
attractive chalcedony quartz is also known as Heliotrope because in
ancient times polished stones were described as reflecting the sun:
perhaps the appearance of the gem reminded the ancients of the red
setting sun reflected in the ocean.
Medieval Christians often used bloodstone to carve
scenes of the crucifixion and martyrs, leading it to also be dubbed
martyr's stone. The legend of the origin of bloodstone says that it was
first formed when some drops of Christ's blood fell and stained some
jasper at the foot of the cross. A beautiful example of carved
bloodstone with the seal of the German Emperor Rudolf II can be seen at
the Louvre museum in Paris.
Even today, finely powdered bloodstone is used as a
medicine and aphrodisiac in India. Perhaps that explains why today it is
difficult to find fine specimens of bloodstone on the market. Bloodstone
is mined in India, Australia, and the United States.
Cat's
Eye
Like
the eye of a panther, cat's-eye chrysoberyl seems almost supernatural in
origin. How could something so feline be mineral and not animal?
Cat's-eye chrysoberyl, a cousin of color-changing alexandrite, is a
variety of chrysoberyl, which has a distinct band of light across its
face, which sweeps from side to side.
The color ranges from a honey-brown to an apple green
with rich gold colors generally the most valued. The most important
value factor is the strength and sharpness of the eye. Fine cat's-eye
chrysoberyl often also shows the "milk and honey" effect. When
a bright light source is directed at the side of the stone, one side of
the eye will be milky white and the other remains gold. When the stone
is rotated, the colors switch. Cat's-eyes are especially popular in
men's jewelry.
Cat's-eye chrysoberyl has the presence of a familiar,
a powerful talisman that can direct fortune. Put it to work for you!
Chrysoberyl can also seen in a faceted variety, which
has a honey-gold color. It may remind you of yellow sapphire, topaz, or
citrine.
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Citrine
Citrine
is one of the most affordable gemstones, thanks to the durability
and availability of this golden quartz. Named from the French name
for lemon, "citron," many citrines have a juicy lemon
colour.Citrine includes yellow to gold to orange brown shades of
transparent quartz. Sunny and affordable, citrine can brighten
almost any jewelry style, blending especially well with the yellow
gleam of polished gold.
In ancient times, citrine was carried as a
protection against snake venom and evil thoughts.
Although the darker, orange colors of citrine,
sometimes called Madeira citrine after the color of the wine, has
generally been the most valued color, in modern times, many people
prefer the bright lemony shades which mix better with pastel
colors. Citrine is generally more inexpensive than amethyst and is
also available in a wide range of calibrated sizes and shapes,
including very large sizes.
Sometimes you will hear citrine referred to as
topaz quartz, which is incorrect. This name was used in the past
in reference to the color, which is sometimes similar to the color
of topaz. Since topaz is a separate mineral, this type of name can
be confusing and should not be used. However, citrine is
considered an alternative to topaz as the birthstone for November.
Since most citrine on the market started its
life as amethyst which was heated to turn its color to gold,
citrine jewelry, as well as amethyst jewelry, should be kept away
from prolonged exposure to strong light or heat. With this
precaution, citrine jewelry will last for many generations.
Most citrine is mined in Brazil. Supply of
citrine is good from the Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul,
particularly from the Serra mine, which is producing 300 kilos a
month of hammered goods. The Ira' mine produces an additional 100
kilos a month of hammered goods.
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Diamond
See special section for Diamonds.
Emerald
Because
the rich green colour of emerald is the colour of spring, the ancients
prized it as the gemstone symbolizing love and rebirth. Treasured for at
least 4,000 years by different cultures all around the world, emerald is
said to quicken the intelligence as well as the heart. Legend gives its
owner the gift of eloquence.
Emerald is the birthstone for May, the month of
springtime romance, and the anniversary gemstone for the twentieth year
of marriage, the perfect emblem of an enduring love.
What is the source of the timeless appeal of emerald?
Today scientists tell us that the human eye is more sensitive to the
color green than to any other. Perhaps that is why green is so soothing
to the eye, and why the color green seems to complement every other
color: think of the beauty of a garden.
Spring can also be seen in the network of inclusions
in the depth of the emerald that the French call the "jardin,"
or "garden," because it resembles foliage. The inclusions are
like a fingerprint, giving each emerald a distinct personality. The
extreme rarity of transparent emerald is why emeralds can be more
valuable than diamonds.
Emerald is a beryl, a mineral that is normally
colorless. Emerald's rich green color is caused by minute traces of
chromium. Chromium is the rare Midas element of gemstones: its presence
also gives rubies their firey redness. Crystals of emerald grew long
before human history in metamorphic rocks, which usually restricts the
size of emerald crystals, making them even rarer in large sizes. Other
beryls, emerald's cousins, like pale blue aquamarine, pink morganite,
golden heliodor, and pale green beryl, grow in pegmatites which allow
larger crystals to form. There is even a bright red beryl found in Utah
in the United States.
Emeralds are cut in Jaipur, India and Tel-Aviv, Israel
as well as in the mining countries. Emerald is one of the most difficult
gemstones to cut because of the high value of the rough stone and the
many inclusions found in crystals. Small changes in orientation can make
a large difference in the final appearance of the gem. Skilled craftsmen
who specialize in cutting emerald can be found in cities around the
world for jewelers who insist on having stones perfected for the optimum
brilliance and vibrancy.
When choosing an emerald, the most important value
factor to consider is color. The more vivid the green, the more valuable
the emerald. There are also attractive bright stones with a lighter
green color that often make a spectacular piece of jewelry. Darker green
emeralds may also make up in rich color what they lose in brightness.
Because emeralds are so rare without inclusions, some
inclusions are expected and do not detract from the value of the stone
as much as with other gemstones. However, you should look to make sure
that fissures and inclusions do not go too deep into the stone so that
it might be weakened enough to break if it were hit accidentally. The
fissures and fractures that are characteristic of emerald are
traditionally filled with oil to minimize their impact. You should avoid
cleaning emerald with hot soapy water or steam and never clean an
emerald in an ultrasonic cleaner because this oil could be removed or
damaged, making the fissures more visible.
Emerald is most often cut in a rectangular step-cut,
which is now popularly known as the emerald cut. Smaller sizes are also
found in rounds, ovals, pear shapes and marquise cuts. You may have to
look a while for an unusual shape in a larger size. Due to their rich
color, emeralds are also spectacular when cut in a smooth-domed cabochon
cut.
Cleopatra prized her emeralds more than any other gem.
She may have dropped her pearls in her wine for Mark Anthony but she
kept her emeralds for herself! The ancient emerald mines of Cleopatra,
long a mystery, were discovered again a hundred years ago near the Red
Sea. Some tools found in the mine were dated at 1650 B.C. but no quality
emeralds were found: the mines were exhausted thousands of years ago.
Mummies in ancient Egypt were often buried with an emerald on their
necks carved with the symbol for verdure, flourishing greenness, to
symbolize eternal youth.
The Romans also loved emeralds because, as ancient
scholar Pliny said, "nothing greens greener." Pliny said that
emerald was the only gem which delighted the eye without fatiguing it.
He said his eyes were restored when gazing at emerald. Emperor Nero wore
emerald sunglasses to watch the gladiators.
One legend says that Satan lost the emerald from his
crown when he fell. The emerald was shaped into a bowl which the Queen
of Sheba sent to Nicodemus. Christ used the bowl at the last supper and
Joseph of Arimathea used the bowl to catch blood from the cross,
founding the order of the Holy Grail.
The Moguls of India, including Shah Jahan, the builder
of the Taj Mahal, loved emeralds so much they inscribed them with sacred
text and wore them as talismans. Some of these sacred stones, called
Mogul emeralds, can still be seen in museums and collections today.
The Treasures of the Incas and Aztecs
Ancient emeralds were from mines in Egypt and perhaps
what is now Afghanistan. But Spaniards arriving on the continent of
South America were stunned to see emeralds finer and larger than any
ever seen before. The Spaniards spent years searching for the source of
the fantastic green stones favored by the Incas. They found it finally
in what is today Colombia: Chivor, also known as Somondoco or "God
of the green gems," then later Muzo and Cosquez, the richest
emerald mines in the planet and still the source of the finest stones
today.
Hernando Cortes, the conquerer of Mexico, was carrying
carved emeralds taken from the Aztecs in the shapes of fish and flowers
and a carved emerald bell, and an emerald the size of a man's palm when
he was shipwrecked. Many of the finest stones were lost forever. The
Incas had an emerald goddess, a fabulous emerald the size of an ostrich
egg. In tribute they sacrificed her children: smaller emeralds which
were presented to the goddess. Treasure hunters seeking wrecks of
Spanish galleons are occasionally rewarded with the ultimate treasure:
emeralds lost by the conquistadores long ago. Emerald connoisseurs today
are lucky because a relatively new find in Zambia has made emeralds much
more available on the market today. Zambian emeralds have captured a
large portion of the market because they have a rich deep color and
sometimes have very few inclusions. Zambian emeralds tend to be a
slightly darker green than emeralds from Colombia and some have a bluish
tone. Fine specimens have a clear true green which deserves its place
near the top range of quality in the market.
Long thought of as a producer of lower quality
emerald, Brazil today now produces fine emeralds that rival those of its
famous neighbor. A mine called Nova Era has produced some top gem
quality emeralds that are changing Brazil's reputation. Brazil now
produces more emeralds than any other country.
Zimbabwe's famous Sandawana mine is known for
producing top quality emeralds in small sizes. Other potentially
important producers of emerald are Pakistan, Afghanistan, Madagascar,
Nigeria, and Russia.
Garnet
The
oranges of autumn leaves, the glowing red coals of a winter fire, the
sparkling green of a summer field, and the beautiful pinks and of spring
flowers, garnet is a gemstone for all seasons. Garnets are a closely
related group of gemstones that are available in every color. Dark reds,
tangerine orange, vivid lime green, soft bluish-pink, garnet is all
these colors and more.
There are garnets that change color in different
light, translucent green garnets that look like jade, garnets with
stars, garnets that have been mined for thousands of years and garnets
that were just discovered in the last decade.
The name garnet probably comes from pomegranate. Many
ancient pieces of garnet jewelry are studded with tiny red stones that
do look a lot like a cluster of pomegranate seeds! Jewelry set with
garnets from Czechoslovakia was extremely popular in the nineteenth
century and Bohemian garnet jewelry is still popular today, although
today the garnets are mined elsewhere. When you say garnet, most people
think automatically of small dark red gemstones, even though this is
only one aspect of the world of garnets.
Garnet is the birthstone for January, which means that
January babies have a lot of choices! Varieties available, some mineral
differences and some color descriptions, include rhodolite, malaya,
demantoid, grossular, hessonite, spessartite, hessonite, almandine,
mandarin, and combinations between these varieties.
One of the most popular is rhodolite garnet,which
ranges from pink to purplish red in color and is mined in Africa, India,
and Sri Lanka. Tsavorite garnet is a bright yellow green to grass green,
and is mined in Tanzania and Kenya. Legendary demantoid garnet combines
a bright green with dazzling brilliance that won over the Tsars of
Russia, who used it lavishly. In the past, demantoid garnet was only
ever available in small sizes and was extremely rare, but a new deposit
was found in 1998 in Namibia, southern Africa. However, it is still
quite rare today.
Malaya garnet, another popular mixed variety, ranges
from orange to gold and is mined in Tanzania and Kenya. Pyrope garnet is
a very saturated red: beautiful small pyrope garnets found in Arizona
are called anthill garnet because they are mined by ants, who carry them
up when they are excavating their anthills.
One garnet growing in popularity is a newly discovered
garnet from Namibia, which is a bright orange spessartite, is called
mandarin garnet because its color is a true orange. Hessonite and
Spessarite garnets mostly come in golds and oranges and browns that are
sometimes called cinnamon garnets. Grossular, the variety of garnets
that gives us tsavorite, also is available in pale pinks and greens and
yellows.
Garnets have long been carried by travelers to protect
against accidents far from home. In ancient Asia and the American
Southwest, garnets were used as bullets because the glowing red color
was said to increase the ferocity of a wound. Garnets in legend light up
the night and protect their owners from nightmares. Noah used a garnet
lantern to navigate the Ark at night. The ancient world is full of
praise for the carbuncle, the glowing red coal of a gemstone we now know
as garnet.
Iolite
Iolite
has different colors in different directions in the crystal. A cube cut
from iolite will look a violetish blue almost like sapphire from one
side, clear as water from the other, and a honey yellow from the top.
This property led some people to call iolite "water sapphire"
in the past, a name that is now obsolete.
The name iolite comes from the Greek ios, which means
violet. Iolite is usually a purplish blue when cut properly, with a
softness to the color that can be quite attractive.
Iolite is readily available and surprisingly
affordable. The better and richer the blue, the better. It is mined in
India, Sri Lanka, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and Brazil. The Vikings probably
mined iolite from deposits in Norway and Greenland.
Iolite is relatively hard but should be protected from
blows. With its attractive colour and reasonable price, it may become a
jewelry staple in the future.
When Leif Eriksson and the other legendary Viking
explorers ventured far out into the Atlantic Ocean, away from any
coastline that could help them determine position, they had a secret gem
weapon: iolite. The Viking mariners used thin pieces of iolite as the
world's first polarizing filter. Looking through an iolite lens, they
could determine the exact position of the sun, and navigate safely to
the new world and back.
The property that made iolite so valuable to the
Vikings is extreme pleochroism.
Pleochroism may have been helpful in navigation but it
makes things difficult for a gem cutter. If iolite is not cut from
exactly the right direction, no matter the shape of the rough, its color
will not show to its best advantage.
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Jade
Since
at least 2950 BC, jade has been treasured in China as the royal
gemstone, yu. The character for jade resembles a capital I with a
line across the middle: the top represents the heavens, the bottom
the earth, and the center section, mankind. The word yu is used in
Chinese to call something precious, as in English we use gold.
Jade was thought to preserve the body after death and can be found
in emperors' tombs from thousands of years ago. One tomb contained
an entire suit made out of jade, to assure the physical
immortality of its owner. For thousands of years, jade was a
symbol of love and virtue as well as a status symbol.
In Central America, the Olmecs, the Mayans, the
Toltecs all also treasured jade and used it for carvings and
masks. The Aztecs instituted a tax in jade, which unfortunately
led to the recycling of earlier artworks.
The history of jade in Europe is not quite as
distinguished. Although prehistoric axes and blades carved from
jade have been found by archeologists, most Europeans were
unfamiliar with jade as a gemstone for jewelry use until the
sixteenth century when jade objects were imported from China and,
later, Central America. The Portuguese, who brought home jade
pieces from their settlement in Canton, China, called jade piedre
de ilharga, or stone of the loins, because they believed it to be
strong medicine for kidney ailments. Jade objects brought back to
Spain from the new world were called by the Spanish version of
this phrase piedra de hijada. This became the French ejade and
then, finally, jade.
The ancient jade carved in China was what we
today call nephrite jade: an amphibolite mineral. (Interestingly
enough, the word nephrite comes from the Greek word for kidney,
nephros, a bit more scholarly version of the same thing.) In the
19th Century , it was discovered that the material from the new
world was not the same mineral as the jade from China. The mineral
from Central America, a pyroxene, was called jadeite to
distinguish it from the original nephrite. Jade is most often sold
by the piece rather than per carat. Although the overall color is
the most important value factor, attention is also paid to
translucency, texture, and also to pattern. Certain patterns,
including moss in snow, are highly valued.
Both jadeite and nephrite are very durable and
tough, although jadeite is slightly harder than nephrite due to
its microcrystalline structure.
Today it is jadeite jade that is considered the
real jade, commanding prices much higher than nephrite because it
comes in much more vivid green colors and finer translucency than
nephrite jade. Jadeite jade is produced in Burma, which is now
known as Myanmar. Every year, the state-owned Myanmar Gems
Enterprise holds the Myanma Gems, Jade, and Pearl Emporium where
boulders are sold by tender to the top jade dealers from around
the world.
Jadeite dealers must be some of the world's
biggest gamblers because of the way they buy. Boulders are sold
intact, with only a tiny window cut in the side to expose a small
section of the interior. The buyer has no idea what lies inside:
valuable green jadeite or perhaps only white or brown-stained
inexpensive material. He has only his instinct, and on that basis
he pays hundreds of thousands of dollars for what may turn out to
be the deal of the year or a huge loss.
The top jadeite jade is usually cut into smooth
dome shapes called cabochons. Jadeite bangles are also very
popular in Asian countries. Beads are also very beautiful and some
important jadeite necklaces made during the art deco period have
fetched hundreds of thousands of dollars in auctions in the past
few years.
Because of its smooth even texture, jade has
long been a preferred material for carving. The most common shape
is the flat donut-shaped disc called a pi, which is commonly worn
as a necklace.
Jadeite jade is most treasured for its vivid
greens, but it also comes in lavender, pink, yellow, and white.
Nephrite is found in less intense dark spinach greens, white,
browns, and black.
The Chinese knew about jadeite, travelers had
brought back some jadeite from Burma as early as the thireenth
century. But China was turning inward at that time and this
foreign Kingfisher Stone, as they called it, referring to the
brightly colored feathers of the bird, was not considered to be
real jade. It only became popular in the eighteenth and nineteenth
century when trade with Burma opened up again.
The Emerald Buddha, the sacred image that is
enshrined at Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok, Thailand, is actually
beautiful green jadeite.
While jadeite is mined today primarily in
Myanmar, small quantities can be found in Guatemala. Although
neolithic jadeite axes were found in Europe, it is not known where
this prehistoric jadeite was mined, although it is possible that
the material came from a deposit in the Alps. Nephrite is mined in
Canada, Australia, the United States, and Taiwan.
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Pearl
See
special section on Pearl
Lapis
Lazuli
Lapis is a
dark blue microcrystalline rock composed primarily of the mineral
lazurite.
It often sparkles with golden pyrite inclusions.
Lapis lazuli is still mined at the deposits of the
ancient world in Afghanistan. Lapis is also mined in Chile. Small
quantities are also produced in Siberia, in Colorado in the United
States, and in Myanmar.
Lapis lazuli is somewhat porous and should be
protected from chemicals and solvents. Warm soapy water is the best way
to clean it. Lapis is not very hard at 5.5 and should be protected from
other jewelry when stored to avoid scratches.
The beautiful blues in paintings from the Renaissance
are thanks to the blue of lapis lazuli, the blue rock loved by the
ancients, from Mesopotamia, to Egypt, to Persia, to Greece and Rome. The
ancient city of Ur has a thriving trade in lapis as early as the fourth
millennium B.C. The name is international, from the Latin, lapis, which
means stone, and from the Arabic, azul, which means blue. When lapis was
first introduced to Europe, it was called ultramarinum, which means
'beyond the sea'. Ground lapis was the secret of the blue in
ultramarine, the pigment which painters used to paint the sea and the
sky until the nineteenth century. Lapis was also popular for inlays.
The columns of St Issac's Cathedral in Petersburg are
lined with lapis and the Pushkin Palace in Petersburg has lapis lazuli
paneling!
The Romans believed that lapis was a powerful
aphrodisiac. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to keep the limbs
healthy and free the soul from error, envy and fear
Moonstone
Moonstones come in a variety of colors. The body color can range from
colorless to gray, brown, yellow, green, or pink. The clarity ranges
from transparent to translucent. The best moonstone has a blue sheen,
perfect clarity, and a colorless body color.
Sometimes moonstone will have an eye as well as a
sheen. Another related feldspar variety is known as rainbow moonstone.
In this variety of labradorite feldspar, the sheen is a variety of
rainbow hues.
Moonstones are usually cut in a smooth-domed cabochon
shape to maximize the effect. Sometimes they are carved to show a
man-in-the-moon face. Moonstone beads also display the sheen very well
and are simply stunning against a black dress.
Fine moonstone is quite rare and becoming rarer. It is
mined in Sri Lanka and Southen India. The rainbow variety can also be
found in Madagascar.
The Romans thought that moonstone was formed out of
moonlight. Moonstone is a variety of feldspar and the shimmer, which is
called schiller or adularescence, is caused by the intergrowth of two
different types of feldspar, with different refractive indexes. In
Europe, moonstone is considered the birthstone for June, although in the
United States it shares that distinction with alexandrite and pearl.
Onyx
In jewellery design as in fashion, colors look crisper
against a background of black, and black and white always looks right.
In fine jewelry, the black backdrop is often supplied by onyx, a
chalcedony quartz with a fine texture and black color. Some onyx also
displays white bands or ribbons against a black background. If the
layers are even, this type of onyx can be carved into cameos.
Onyx was very popular with the ancient Greeks and
Romans. The name comes from the Greek word onux, which means fingernail.
The story is that one day frisky Cupid cut the divine fingernails of
Venus with an arrowhead while she was sleeping. He left the clippings
scattered on the sand and the fates turned them into stone so that no
part of the heavenly body would ever perish. True, black isn't normally
the color one associates with fingernails. (Did Venus wear Vamp?) But in
Greek times, almost all colors of chalcedony from fingernail white to
dark brown and black were called onyx. Later, the Romans narrowed the
term to refer to black and dark brown colors only.
Onyx which is reddish brown and white is known as
sardonyx. Sardonyx was highly valued in Rome, especially for seals,
because it was said to never stick to the wax. Roman General Publius
Cornelius Scipio was known for wearing lots of sardonyx.
Black onyx especially shines when used a backdrop for
color play. Its fine texture also makes it ideal for carving, making it
a favored material for today's lapidary artists. In the pin by designer
Susan Helmich, a carved piece of onyx with threads of white provides a
stunning backdrop for a flash of color. Onyx was often used as the
perfect foil for carved rock crystal or the drop dead red of rubies in
Art deco designs. It is also popular in marcasite jewelry. So if you
would like to add a little black magic to your jewelry design, consider
onyx.
Opal
Mysterious opals contain the wonders of the skies -
sparking rainbows, fireworks, and lightning - shifting and moving in
their depths. Opal has been treasured throughout history around the
world. Archaeologist Louis Leakey found six-thousand year old opal
artifacts in a cave in Kenya!
Opal was much loved and valued highly by the Romans,
who called it opalus.
At the same time, opal was also sought in what would
become the Americas. The Aztecs mined opal in South and Central America.
The story of opal in Australia begins more than 100
million years ago when the deserts of central Australia were a great
inland sea, with silica-laden sediment deposited around its shoreline.
After the sea receded and disappeared to become the great Artesian
basin, weathering 30 million years ago released a lot of the silica into
a solution which filled cracks in the rocks, layers in clay, and even
some fossils. Some of this silica became precious opal. Opal is one of
the few gemstones that is sedimentary in origin. Opal still contains 6
to 10 percent water, a remnant of that ancient sea.
Gold panners in Australia found the first few pieces
of precious opal in 1863. Mines at White Cliffs began producing in 1890.
Only opal with a perfectly aligned grid of silica
spheres will show play of color, which is created through diffraction.
The size of the spheres determine the wavelengths and therefore the
colors seen. The brilliance of the colors are determined by the
regularity of the grid.
The strength of the colors seen in opal also depend on
the background body color and the transparency of the stone. The body
color determines the variety of opal and has a large impact on the
value.
Black opal, opal with a black to dark gray body color,
has the most brilliant colors and is the most valuable. Crystal opal,
the next most costly type of opal, is transparent with flashes and is
highly valued due to the brilliance of its colors and the fact that many
layers of color within the stone can also be seen. White and milky opals
tend to have more diffused colors due to the light background color.
This is the most affordable type of opal.
Another more unusual type of opal is boulder opal,
which has opal with an ironstone host rock matrix which creates a
natural dark background to view its fire. These sometimes occur in
"splits" a matched pair of opals created when a piece of
boulder opal is split along the opal vein. These are particularly
favored for earrings, since they are mirror images of each other.
Within each opal variety, the brilliance of the play
of color is the most important value factor. After this consideration,
the colors seen and the pattern of the colors will also influence value.
Generally, opal with red fire is the most valued because opal that shows
red will also show other colors when rolled back and forth: it contains
the whole spectrum. The pattern of the play of color also influences
value. Generally large flashes and broad patterns are more rare and
valuable than small pinfire patterns.
Opal was also treasured in the Middle Ages and was
called ophthalmios, or eye stone, due to a widespread belief that it was
beneficial to eyesight. Blonde women wore opal necklaces to protect
their hair from losing its color. Some thought the opal's effect on
sight could render the wearer invisible.
Opal as Muse
A beautiful opal called the orphanus was set in the
crown of the Holy Roman Emperor. It was described as follows: "as
though pure white snow flashed and sparkled with the color of bright
ruddy wine, and was overcome by this radiance." This opal was said
to guard the regal honor.
Opals are also set in the crown jewels of France.
Napoleon gave Josephine a beautiful opal with brilliant red flashes
called "The burning of Troy," making her his Helen.
Shakespeare found in the opal a symbol of shifting
inconstancy, likening play of color to play of mind in one of the most
apt uses of gemstone symbolism in literature. In Twelfth Night, he
writes: "Now the melancholy God protect thee, and the tailor make
thy garments of changeable taffeta, for thy mind is opal."
In the nineteenth century, opal was considered unlucky
due to the plot of a popular Sir Walter Scott novel of the time. The
heroine of the novel has her life force caught in the beautiful opal she
wears in her hair and she dies when the fire in the opal is
extinguished. Queen Victoria loved opals and often gave them as wedding
presents. She and her daughters created a fashion for wearing opal.
Queen Victoria was one of the first to appreciate
opals from an exciting new source: Australia. Ancient opal came from the
mines near Cervenica, Hungary, in what is now Eastern Slovakia, where
hundreds of men mined the stone.
Ancient opal fanciers never had the chance to see the
opal of Australia, where the opal of today was born, which far surpasses
the beauty of Hungarian opal in fire and brilliance.
Black opal is found only in Australia in Lightning
Ridge, the most famous opal deposit in the world since it was discovered
in 1903, and in Mintabie, which also produces large quantities of light
opal.
Another large opal producing area in Australia is
Coober Pedy, which produces light opal. The name Coober Pedy is an
Aboriginal name meaning "white man in a hole." If you visit
Coober Pedy, you will understand how it got its name: many houses - and
even a church! - are burrows dug into the ground called dugouts. This
type of dwelling is quite practical and cool as temperatures soar in the
daytime.
Andamooka is known for producing crystal opal and
light opal. Boulder opal is produced in several areas in western
Queensland.
In addition to Australia, a small quantity of precious
opal is produced in Brazil. Mexico and the state of Oregon in the United
States produce a volcanic opal called fire opal. Fire opal is
transparent opal ranging in color from colorless to yellow, orange, and
red. Sometimes it also shows play of color in addition to its bright
orange body color. Low quality opal was recently discovered in Ethiopia.
Opal is cut in Australia, Hong Kong, Mexico, Germany,
and other places. Calibrated sizes are widely available in light opal,
which is very popular with jewelry manufacturers around the world due to
the beauty even of inexpensive pieces. Black opal is cut in free sizes
due to its rarity and high value. Boulder opal is often available in the
natural shape of the rough. Fire opal can be found in both faceted and
cabochon cuts, including many interesting fancy shapes.
A green translucent opal that resembles chrysoprase or
jade, which is called prase opal, is found in Tanzania. A beautiful
blue-green opal is found in Peru in the Andes Mountains. These types of
opal do not display play of color.
The hardness of opal ranges from 5.5 to 6.5 on the
Mohs scale. It should be protected from heat and strong light, which can
dry it out, causing cracks. Ultrasonic cleaners, metal polish, acids,
and any strong solvents should be avoided. Exposed corners or points on
pear or marquise shape opals may chip if hit while they are being worn.
Opal is best set in a protected mounting.
Roman historian Pliny described the beauty of opal as
the combination of the beauty of all other gems: "There is in them
a softer fire than the ruby, there is the brilliant purple of the
amethyst, and the sea green of the emerald - all shining together in
incredible union. Some by their splendor rival the colors of the
painters, others the flame of burning sulphur or of fire quickened by
oil."
Peridot
Peridot, the birthstone of August, this gemstone is
born in fire: the volcanic gem. Small crystals of peridot are often
found in the rocks created by volcanoes and also can be found in meteors
that fall to earth! A few samples of extraterrestrial peridot have even
been faceted into gems!
Peridot is the gem form of the mineral olivine.
Because the iron which creates the color is an integral part of its
structure, it is found only in green, ranging from a summery light
yellowish green to a 7-up bottle green.
Peridot was mined in ancient Egypt on an island called
Zeberget.
The Romans called peridot "evening emerald,"
since its green color did not darken at night but was still visible by
lamplight. Peridot later was also often used to decorate medieval
churches, probably carried back to Europe by the Crusaders. Large
peridots, more than 200 carats in size, adorn the shrine of the three
magi at the Cologne Cathedral.
Today most peridot is mined by Native Americans in
Arizona on the San Carlos Reservation. Fine large peridot are found in
Myanmar (formerly Burma) and peridot is also mined in China and Sri
Lanka.
In 1994, an exciting new deposit of peridot was
discovered in Pakistan, and these stones are among the finest ever seen.
The new mine is located 15,000 feet above sea level in the Nanga Parbat
region in the far west of the Himalaya Mountains in the Pakistanian part
of Kashmir. Beautiful large crystals of peridot were found, some that
cut magnificent large gemstones. One stone was more than 300 carats!
This new discovery, combined with fashion's passion for lime green, has
revived interest in peridot and increased the popularity of this
gemstone.
Although peridot is treasured in Hawaii as the goddess
Pele's tears, almost all of the peridot sold in Hawaii today is from
Arizona, even though peridot is produced by Hawaii's volcanoes. The
island of Oahu even has beaches made out of olivine grains but
unfortunately they are much too small to cut into peridot!
Mining was done at night because legend said that
peridot could not be easily seen during the day. The island was infested
with serpents who made peridot mining a very dangerous occupation until
one Pharoh finally had them all driven into the sea.
Peridot had the power to drive away evil spirits and
the power was considered to be even more intense when the stone was set
in gold. Peridot was also said to strengthen the power of any medicine
drunk from goblets carved from the gemstone
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Ruby
Ruby has been the world's most valued gemstone
for thousands of years. Ruby was said to be the most precious of
the twelve stones God created when he created all things and this
"lord of gems" was placed on Aaron's neck by God's
command. The bible says that wisdom is "more precious than
rubies," that is to say very valuable indeed. In the ancient
language of Sanskrit, ruby is called ratnaraj, or "king of
precious stones" and ratnanayaka; "leader of precious
stones."
In fact, rubies are today still more valuable
and rare than even the top quality colorless diamonds. A 16 carat
ruby sold at auction for US$227,301 per carat at Sotheby's in
1988. A 27.37 carat Burmese ruby ring sold for US$4 million at
Sotheby's in Geneva in May 1995, or $146,145 per carat. A 32 carat
ruby sold for US$144,000 per carat at Sotheby's in 1989. In
contrast, eight D-color internally flawless diamonds over 50
carats were sold in the past 9 years and the largest, a pear-shape
of 102 carats, fetched a mere US$125,000 per carat. Top rubies are
so rare even the world's top gem dealers must incessantly comb
estate sales and auctions to find them. Sizes above five carats
are particularly rare.
Ruby is the gem quality of the mineral corundum,
one of the most durable minerals which exists, a crystalline form
of aluminium oxide. Corundum has a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale
and is also extremely tough. In its common form, it is even used
as an abrasive.
Choosing a Ruby
The most important factor in the value of a ruby
is color. The top qualities are as red as you can imagine: a
saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or
blue. Theword red is derived from the latin for ruby, ruber, which
is derived from similar words in Persian, Hebrew, and Sanskrit.
The intensity of color of a fine ruby is like a glowing coal,
probably the most intensely colored substance our ancestors ever
saw. It is no wonder they ascribed magical powers to these fires
that burned perpetually and never extinguished themselves.
All colors of corundum except red are known as
sapphires, which has created controversy about where ruby ends and
sapphire begins, particularly in pink shades of corundum. In 1991,
the International Colored Gemstone Association ruled that the
lighter shades of the reddish hues of corundum should be included
in the category of ruby.
After color, the other factors which influence
the value of a ruby are clarity, cut, and size. Rubies that are
perfectly transparent, with no tiny flaws, are more valuable than
those with inclusions which are visible to the eye. Cut can make a
big difference in how attractive and lively a ruby appears to the
eye. A well-cut stone should reflect back light evenly across the
surface without a dark or washed-out area in the center that can
result from a stone that is too deep or shallow. The shape should
also be symmetrical and there should not be any nicks or scratches
in the polish. Rubies and other gemstones are sold per carat, a
unit of weight equal to one-fifth of a gram. Larger rubies,
because they are more rare, will cost more per carat than smaller
stones of the same quality.
Ruby sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point
star. These star rubies are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to
display the effect. The star is best visible when illuminated with
a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light
moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting
off tiny rutile needles, called "silk," which are
oriented along the crystal faces.
The value of star rubies and sapphires are
influenced by two things: the intensity and attractiveness of the
body color and the strength and sharpness of the star. All six
legs should be straight and equally prominent. Star rubies rarely
have the combination of a fine translucent or transparent color
and a sharp prominent star. These gems are valuable and expensive.
Where Rubies are Born
The most famous source of fine rubies is Burma,
which is now called Myanmar. The ruby mines of Myanmar are older
than history: stone age and bronze age mining tools have been
found in the mining area of Mogok. Rubies from the legendary mines
in Mogok often have a pure red color, which is often described as
"pigeon's-blood" although that term is more fanciful
than an actual practical standard in the trade today. Myanmar also
produces intense pinkish red rubies which are also vivid and
extremely beautiful. Many of the rubies from Burma have a strong
fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet rays like those in
sunlight, which layers on extra color. Burma rubies have a
reputation of holding their vivid color under all lighting
conditions.
Since demand for fine rubies is really only
limited by the tiny supply available, new sources are always
treated as exciting news in the trade. An important mining area in
Burma is called Mong Hsu.
The Mong Hsu ruby deposit is producing
commercial quantities of commercial quality Burma ruby and also
significant quantities of fine quality Burma ruby, particularly in
sizes up to a carat. Burma ruby is now more readily available than
Thai ruby, due to the new ruby rush in the area.
The new deposit has also affected the world
capital of the ruby business: Thailand. Many of the ruby traders
and cutters from Chanthaburi and Bo Rai have moved to Mae Sai in
Thailand. In Tachilek in Myanmar, across the border from Mae Sai,
a flourishing trade in Mong Hsu ruby has transformed a village
into a prosperous town. Most Mong Hsu ruby is cut and marketed in
Thailand.
Thailand is the world's most important ruby
trading center. Perhaps 80 percent of the world's ruby goes
through Thailand at some point in the trading cycle. The largest
ruby cutting factories are in the Chanthaburi area of Thailand.
Bangkok is generally where the world's buyers come to purchase
ruby.
In 1992, a new ruby mine was discovered in
Vietnam that produces rubies which are very similar to rubies from
Burma. In fact, the geology of the new mine may be a continuation
of the same formation that produced the Burma deposits. Some of
the new Vietnamese rubies have been praised by experts as being
virtually indistinguishable from top quality Burmese stones.
Fine rubies are also found in Thailand. Thai
rubies tend to be darker red in tone: a real red, tending toward
burgundy rather than pink, as Burma rubies do. This makes them
very popular in the United States where consumers generally prefer
their rubies to be a darker red rather than a darker pink. Some
Thai rubies have black reflections, a phenomenon called
extinction, which can make their color look darker than it really
is. But Thai rubies also can have a rich vivid red that rivals the
Burmese in intensity. Sri Lankan rubies can also be very
beautiful. Sri Lankan stones are often pinkish in hue and many are
pastel in tone. Some, however, resemble the vivid pinkish red hues
from Burma.
Rubies from Kenya and Tanzania surprised the
world when they were discovered in the sixties because their color
rivals the world's best. Unfortunately, most of the ruby
production from these countries has many inclusions, tiny flaws
which diminish transparency. Rubies from the African mines are
rarely transparent enough to facet. However, their fantastic color
is displayed to full advantage when cut cabochon style. A few rare
clean stones have been seen which are top quality.
Occasionally a few fine top-quality rubies
appear on the market from Afghanistan, Pakistan, or the Pamir
Mountains of the Commonwealth of Independent States. The terrain
in these areas has made exploration for gemstones very difficult
but someday they may produce significant quantities for the world
market.
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Sapphire
Sapphire, the birthstone of September known as the
celestial gemstone, has been treasured for thousands of years. The
ancient Persians believed that the earth rested on a giant sapphire and
its reflection colored the sky. Sapphire is found in all the colors of
the heavens: from midnight blue to the bright blue of noon sky in the
Mediterranean, golden sunrise to firey reddish-orange sunsets, and the
delicate violet of twilight. The most famous and valuable sapphires are
a rich intense blue, a truly royal hue.
Sapphire is also the birthstone for September, the
month when the most babies are born. Ancient lists also name sapphire as
a birthstone for April and the gemstone for the sign of Taurus.
The most valuable sapphires have a medium intense,
vivid blue color. The best sapphires hold the brightness of their color
under all different types of lighting. Any black, gray, or green
overtones mixed in with the blue will reduce a stone's value. In
general, a more pastel blue would be less preferred than a vivid blue
but would be priced higher than an overdark blackish blue color. As with
all gemstones, sapphires which are "clean" and have few
visible inclusions or tiny flaws are the most valuable. However some
very fine sapphires, in particular those from Kashmir, have a velvety
mist-like texture which enhances the richness of the blue.
Sapphires are most often cut in a cushion shape - a
rounded rectangle - or an oval shape. You can also find smaller
sapphires in round brilliant cuts and a wide variety of fancy shapes,
including triangles, squares, emerald cuts, marquises, pear shapes,
baguette shapes, and cabochon cuts, or smooth domes.
Some sapphires with an unusual kind of tiny
needle-like inclusions can be cut in a cabochon shape to display a
dancing six-rayed white star. Star sapphires, which are becoming more
rare, are very popular for men's rings. Star sapphires are judged by the
sharpness of the star, the eveness of the rays or "legs" of
the star, and the body color of the sapphire. It is extremely rare to
find a star-sapphire with a sharp star and a bright blue body color. The
ancients regarded star sapphires as a very powerful talisman, a guiding
star for travelers and seekers of all kinds. They were so powerful, they
were said to continue to protect the wearer even after being passed on
to someone else.
In addition to blue, sapphires are available in every
color but red simply because a red sapphire would be called a ruby! Both
of these gemstones are a gem variety of the mineral corundum: the only
difference is the trace elements which give them their rich colors. Pink
shades of corundum are known either as pink ruby or pink sapphire.
Sapphire in colors other than blue is often referred to as fancy
sapphire.
Sapphires have become more available in the past
twenty years because some light, cloudy, or overdark sapphire can now be
heated at very high temperatures to improve the color or clarity. This
process, which dissolves trace elements already present in the sapphire,
is completely stable. There is no price difference between heated and
non-heated material except for at the very top of the market, where the
country of origin will also make a difference in the price. About 90
percent of the sapphire on the market today has been heated to make sure
it has reached the best possible color and clarity.
Sapphire is perhaps the toughest and most durable
gemstone available on the market. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs
scale, sapphire is harder than any other gem but diamond and it has no
cleavage plane so it cannot be cut with a single blow like a diamond. In
fact, synthetic sapphire is used for scratch-resistant watch crystals,
optical scanners, and other instruments because its durability can be
trusted. That durability ensures that sapphire jewelry will be treasured
for generations.
Sapphires come from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia,
and Cambodia. Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, China, Vietnam, Madagascar, and
the United States also produce some sapphire. The deposits in Montana in
the United States produce a range of fancy colors, mostly from alluvial
deposits in the rivers, and deep blue sapphires from one of the world's
largest deposits at Yogo Gulch. The sapphires from Yogo Gulch are small
in size but they have a beautiful blue. Unfortunately they are found in
a hard rock that makes mining difficult, limiting production.
The most famous sources for sapphire are Kashmir and
Burma, which is now known as Myanmar. Kashmir sapphire, which was
discovered in 1881 when a landslide in the Himalayas uncovered beautiful
blue pebbles, has a rich velvety color prized by connoisseurs. Burma
sapphires, from the same region that produces fabulous rubies, are also
very fine. However, today, these two sources account only for a very
small quantity of the sapphire on the market.
Most fine sapphire on the market today comes from Sri
Lanka, which produces a wide range of beautiful blues from delicate sky
blue colors to rich saturated hues. Kanchanaburi in Thailand and Pailin
in Cambodia are renowned for deep blue, even colors. Two relatively new
mining localities are showing promise: Madagascar, which has produced
some exceptionally fine stones in small sizes but has no organized
mining yet, and Tanzania, which has long produced sapphire in other
colors but is starting to produce blue colors as well from a new deposit
in the south.
Sapphire has long symbolized truth, sincerity, and
faithfulness. Tradition holds that Moses was given the ten commandments
on tablets of sapphire, making it the most sacred gemstone. Because
sapphires represent divine favor, they were the gemstone of choice for
kings and high priests. The British Crown Jewels are full of large blue
sapphires, the symbol of pure and wise rulers.
Spinel
Spinel is
the great imposter of gemstone history: many famous rubies in crown
jewels around the world are actually spinel. The most famous is the
Black Prince's Ruby, a magnificent 170-carat red spinel that currently
adorns the Imperial State Crown in the British Crown Jewels after a long
history: Henry V even wore it on his battle helmet! The Timur Ruby, a
352-carat red spinel now owned by Queen Elizabeth, has the names of some
of the Mughal emperors who previously owned it engraved on its face, an
undeniable pedigree!
In Burma (Myanmar), where some of the most beautiful
colors are mined, spinel was recognized as a separate gem species as
early as 1587. In other countires the masquerade lasted for hundreds of
years after that. Spinels were most often referred to as "balas
rubies" which may have referred to color or to country of origin.
Now treasured for its own sake, spinel is a favorite
of gem dealers and gem collectors due to its brilliance, hardness and
wide range of spectacular colors. In addition to beautiful rich reds,
spinel can be found in a range of beautiful pastel shades of pink and
purple. Of particular interest is a vivid hot pink with a tinge of
orange that is mined in Burma that is one of the most spectacular
gemstone colors in any gem species. Spinel also comes in beautiful blues
which are sometimes called cobalt spinel, but these are very very rare.
Because spinels made in a laboratory are often used
for imitation birthstone rings, many people think "synthetic"
when they hear the name "spinel." They have often never even
seen the real thing.
In fact, the main thing holding back greater
recognition for spinel is rarity. Fine spinels are now more rare than
the rubies they used to imitate. Strangely, they are also more
affordable: in the gem world, too rare can be a drawback because so few
people even get a chance to grow to love these gem varieties.
In addition to Burma, now known as Myanmar, spinel is
mined in Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and Tadjikstan, part of the former Soviet
Union. Spinel is a durable gemstone that is perfect for all jewelry
uses. It is most often faceted in oval, round, or cushion shapes and is
not currently found in calibrated sizes due to its rarity
Tanzanite
Thousands of
years since the dawn of mankind, Amber has held the secrets of a mystic
past. From its health giving qualities, to a coveted treasure adorned by
women for centuries past, the trading commodity of early man maintains
its value and fashion appearance.
Amber is yellow to brown fossil resin exuded by
coniferous trees now extinct; the best amber is transparent. Highly
polished amber is used to make small decorative objects, e.g., beads and
amulets. When rubbed with a cloth, amber becomes charged with static
electricity. Bubbles of air, leaves, bits of wood, or insects, sometimes
of extinct species, are often found trapped in amber. The chief source
of the world's amber is the Baltic coast of Germany.
Commercial mining and gathering activities have been
recorded from as early as 1264 AD and in various guises continue to this
day. Imagine, how much amber has been extracted over a period of 700+
years? It is also true to say that the majority of this extraction was
subsequently turned into varnish and shellac. We will never know what
wonders have been lost. Amber is a strange and attractive gem. Its
golden transparency lends it a quality which even diamonds do not share.
For the artisan it provides a remarkable medium to work with and create
some of the most beautiful objects for us to enjoy. For the scientist it
provides a glimpse into the past, a window into history.
Most of our understanding, beliefs and research on
amber have been based upon the work of European and American cultures.
The Chinese shared our fascination with amber and the earliest written
references go back to AD 92. They believed that amber was the soul of a
tiger which had died and passed into the earth and the Tibetans had
perhaps the most beautiful name for this gem; pö-she, which meant
perfumed crystal.
The amber from the Samland Peninsula in the Baltic is
actually a secondary deposit. The original amber forest was probably
located further South. The resin was subsequently carried South probably
by two great rivers from its original site and deposited in a great
estuarial drift of silt and clay. (At the moment this is still
speculation as many scientists disagree on this point). This deposit
site extends some way out under the sea. This is also the likely source
of amber washed up onto the Norfolk, Suffolk beaches. Autumn and Spring
storms together with complimenting tides tears pieces of raw amber from
the sea bed and strands them on the shore line. If you look for amber it
is usually mixed in with the stranded seaweed, litter and of course
obligatory dead seagull!
Topaz
The Egyptians said that topaz was colored with the
golden glow of the mighty sun god Ra. This made topaz a very powerful
amulet that protected the faithful against harm. The Romans associated
topaz with Jupiter, who also is the god of the sun. Topaz sometimes has
the amber gold of fine cognac or the blush of a peach and all the
beautiful warm browns and oranges in-between. Some rare and exceptional
topaz are pale pink to a sherry red.
Wear topaz only if you wish to be clear-sighted:
legend has it that it dispels all enchantment and helps to improve
eyesight as well! The ancient Greeks believed that it had the power to
increase strength and make its wearer invisible in times of emergency.
Topaz was also said to change color in the presence of poisoned food or
drink. Its mystical curative powers waxed and waned with the phases of
the moon: it was said to cure insomnia, asthma, and hemorrhages.
Perhaps the most famous topaz is a giant specimen set
in the Portuguese Crown, the Braganza, which was first thought to be a
diamond. There is also a beautiful topaz set in the Green Vault in
Dresden, one of the world's important gem collections.
Brown, yellow, orange, sherry, red and pink topaz is
found in Brazil and Sri Lanka. Pink topaz is found in Pakistan and
Russia.
Today we also have blue topaz, which has a pale to
medium blue color created by irradiation. Pale topaz which is enhanced
to become blue is found in Brazil, Sri Lanka, Nigeria, and China. In
early 1998, a new type of enhanced topaz made its appearance, the
surface-enhanced topaz, with colours described as blue to greenish-blue
or emerald green.
Topaz is a very hard gemstone but it can be split with
a single blow, a trait it shares with diamond. As a result it should be
protected from hard knocks.
Tourmaline
Tourmaline's
name comes from the Sinhalese word turmali, which means mixed. Bright
rainbow collections of gemstone varieties were called turmali parcels.
Tourmaline, occurring in more colors and combinations of colors than any
other gemstone variety, lives up to its name. There is a tourmaline that
looks like almost any other gemstone! Many stones in the Russian Crown
jewels from the 17th Century once thought to be rubies are actually
tourmalines.
Perhaps this is why this gemstone is said to encourage
artistic intuition: it has many faces and expresses every mood.
The Empress Dowager Tz'u Hsi, the last Empress of
China, loved pink tourmaline and bought almost a ton of it from the new
Himalaya Mine, located a long way from the Middle Country in California.
The Himalaya Mine is still producing tourmaline today but the Dowager
went to rest eternally on a carved tourmaline pillow.
Tourmaline is also of interest to scientists because
it changes its electrical charge when heated. It becomes a polarized
crystalline magnet and can attract light objects. This property was
noticed long ago before science could explain it: in the Netherlands,
tourmalines were called aschentrekkers because they attracted ashes and
could be used to clean pipes!
Tourmaline occurs in every color of the rainbow and
combinations of two or three colors. Bicolor and tricolor tourmalines,
with bands of colors are very popular. Sometimes the colors are at
different ends of the crystal and sometimes there is one color in the
heart of the crystal and another around the outside. One color
combination, pink center with a green rind, is called watermelon
tourmaline (seedless, of course!) Sometimes designers set slices of the
crystal instead of faceted stones to show off this phenomenon.
Pink and green tourmaline are now widely available and
are especially popular in designer jewelry. Blue tourmalines are also
very much in demand but the supply is more limited.
Tourmalines are most often cut in long rectangular
shapes because of their long and narrow crystal shape. Tourmaline
crystals are beautiful, pencil thin and ridged, and they are also
sometimes set in jewelry. Some designers also set rainbows of tourmaline
in each color of the spectrum. Tourmaline is strongly pleochroic: the
darkest color is always seen looking down the axis of the crystal.
One particularly beautiful variety is chrome
tourmaline, a rare type of tourmaline from Tanzania which occurs in a
very rich green color caused by chromium, the same element which causes
the green in emerald.
Tourmaline is a hard and durable gemstone which can
withstand years of wear. You might want to avoid steam cleaning or heat.
In addition to Brazil, tourmaline is also mined in
Tanzania, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia, Afghanistan, Pakistan,
Sri Lanka, and California and Maine in the United States. Maine produces
beautiful sherbet colors of tourmaline and spectacular minty greens.
California is known for perfect pinks, as well as beautiful bicolors.
Almost every color of tourmaline can be found in Brazil, especially in
Minas Gerais and Bahia. Pink and green colors are particularly popular.
In 1989, miners discovered tourmaline unlike any that had ever been seen
before. The new type of tourmaline, which soon became known as Paraiba
tourmaline, came in incredibly vivid blues and greens. The demand and
excitement for this new material, which soon fetched more than $10,000
per carat, earned more respect for the other colors of tourmaline.
Turquoise
Turquoise,
was said in the 13th Century to have been named in the mistaken belief
that it came from Turkey. That may be true or it may be that the name
comes from the Persian word for turquoise, firouze, since Persia has
been a major source of this gemstone for thousands of years. In any
case, the blue of this gemstone is so vivid and distinct that it has
given its name to the color.
Turquoise is one of the oldest known gem materials.
The Egyptians were mining turquoise in 3,200 BC in the Sinai. The blue
of turquoise was thought to have powerful metaphysical properties by
many ancient cultures. Montezuma's treasure, now displayed in the
British Museum, includes a fantastic carved serpent covered by a mosaic
of turquoise. In ancient Mexico, turquoise was reserved for the gods, it
would not be worn by mere mortals.
The Apache believed that turquoise helped warriors and
hunters to aim accurately. The Zuni believed that it protected them from
demons. In Asia it was considered protection against the evil eye.
Tibetans carved turquoise into ritual objects as well as wearing it in
traditional jewelry. Ancient manuscripts from Persia, India, Afghanstan,
and Arabia report that the health of a person wearing turquoise can be
assessed by variations in the color of the stone. Turquoise was also
thought to promote prosperity.
In Europe even today, turquoise rings are given as
forget-me-not gifts.
The most important turquoise deposits are in Iran,
Tibet, China, and the Southwestern United States. Tuquoise is a mineral
usually found in association with copper deposits. Turquoise is
sometimes mined as a by-product of copper mining.
Turquoise from Iran is often said to be the best
because it is sometimes a clear sky blue with no green modifying color
and no black veins running through it. Turquoise just as fine is
produced in Arizona and New Mexico. In general the bluer the blue, the
more highly valued. A clear even texture without mottleing or veins is
also preferred. However, some people prefer turquoise with veins,
sometimes called spiderwebs, which set off the color.
Turquoise is porous and should be kept away from
chemicals. Clean it with warm soapy water only.
This information is based on
earlier research on the net.
I am unsure at this point in time as to who the credit ought to go to
and would be happy to give it to the authors.
This is just a starting point and we hope to expand this information and filter
out relevant facts as it relates to the precious metals and gem industry in
India.
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